So what makes waves Big for Surfers then?

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So what makes waves Big for Surfers then?

by SeasideMan ^Pro @ 15/04/08 – 09:18:28

Surfing is popular here in Borth. There are three major factors that determine the size of waves:

1. The distance of water the wind has blown over

2. The wind-speed

3. How long the wind has been blowing

The bigger each of these 3 things is, the bigger the waves.

It’s sometimes difficult to match the wave sizes with the wind and that is largely because the waves were formed by very distant winds and took a long time to travel here across the sea.

The picture above was taken a few days ago when there was no wind at all, but fairly large waves. Click on it, and it gets bigger.

Cheers, Tom
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- surfing
- leisure
- surf
- surfers

13 Comments to So what makes waves Big for Surfers then?

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- 359Rabbit
- 15/04/08 @ 09:52:25
Not being an expert on this doesn't how quick the sea shallows also the effect the size of the waves.

Rabbit
- - SeasideMan ^Pro
  - 15/04/08 @ 12:44:53
  As I understand it, when the water shallows it encourages breaking of the wave but doesn't have too much effect on the magnitude of the wave. Breaking is more likely in shallow water as the base can no longer support the top.
  
  But I'm no expert either!
  
  Cheers, Tom.
  - - 359Rabbit
    - 15/04/08 @ 12:49:21
    I'm sure someone out there will give the technical version. I think that when the water shallows the water at the surface is travelling faster than that at the sea bed, hence the wave breaks. I Think!
    
    Rabbit
    - - SeasideMan ^Pro
      - 15/04/08 @ 12:58:39
      The forward motion of surface wind-waves is relatively low as far as I am aware. The water particles move in a mostly up and down way rather than forwards, although there is considerable forward force (or strictly momentum).
      
      But it's been a long time since my Physics A-Level, so I'd better not say any more!
      
      Cheers, Tom.
      - loiswakeman
        
        http://lois.co.uk
        
        15/04/08 @ 14:53:00
        
        I seem to remember that each water molecule in a wave follows an ellipse, and although the wave travels the actual water doesn't - until it breaks of course. My A-level was taken in 1972, so I may well be wrong too...
        
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        SeasideMan ^Pro
        
        15/04/08 @ 15:19:38
        
        I don't remember an ellipse, but then it's been almost 30 years for me too! I suppose I should go look it up, really.
        
        Cheers, Tom.
        
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- faffajane ^Pro
- http://faffajane.blog.co.uk/
- 18/04/08 @ 10:43:29
I love watching the waves at Borth
- - SeasideMan ^Pro
  - 18/04/08 @ 10:48:58
  Me too, faffajane. I am going out now with my dogs to do just that, in fact. Do you manage to get to the coast much?
  
  Tom.
  - - faffajane ^Pro
    - http://faffajane.blog.co.uk/
    - 18/04/08 @ 11:00:07
    Only if I visit aunt and uncle, but that isn't as often as I would like, about once a year
    - - SeasideMan ^Pro
      - 18/04/08 @ 12:25:03
      Once a year is better than not at all, I suppose. Are there no other beaches closer to where you live that you could visit? It's hard to be a really long way from the coast in the UK.
      
      Cheers, Tom.
      - faffajane ^Pro
        
        http://faffajane.blog.co.uk/
        
        18/04/08 @ 14:59:54
        
        I live in Bedfordshire so the nearest beach is a 2 hour drive away on a good day
        
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        SeasideMan ^Pro
        
        18/04/08 @ 15:17:43
        
        Oh, I see your problem :-(
        
        At least there is some lovely countryside in Bedfordshire anyway.
        
        Tom.
        
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        faffajane ^Pro
        
        http://faffajane.blog.co.uk/
        
        18/04/08 @ 15:23:26
        
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